June 21
The last new moon was notable for its total
eclipse of the sun. Though said eclipse was
not visible in England, I meditated during
it anyway (the best thing to do during any
eclipse), following the advice of Vimalananda,
who insisted that eclipse effects spread
worldwide, not just in their locales of visibility.
England was waiting for me in excellent condition
on my return from Turkey, with bright sunny
skies to make that island even greener than
its normal green. After a week in London
lecturing I moved out to the Hampshire countryside,
to Upper Clatford, where ducks dabbled uptailed
in the River Anton, a chalk-bottomed trout
stream that flows down to meet the similarly-configured
River Test. The wet winter was encouraging
every plant to grow in profusion, but the
omnipresent, enthusiastic nettles seemed
to be winning out. Just next to Upper Clatford
(whose name is said to mean "the upstream
village near the ford where the burdock grows")
and its 12th century church (which I was
pleased to learn has been duly entered in
the Churchyard Beautification Competition)
is Abbott's Ann, with its giant chestnut
trees. Its church is the only one in England
that perpetuates the custom of awarding "virgin
crowns" on their demises to women (and
the occasional man) who remained unmarried
but of stainless repute throughout their
lives. These wooden crowns remain hanging
in the church until they fall of their own
accord. Some have been preserved for centuries.
The custom continues, the most recent being
awarded in 1973. A mere half-hour from this
bucolic beauty is the cathedral city of Winchester,
whose noble minster and Great Hall (in which
hangs the Round Table) are well worth a visit.
Nearer to Upper Clatford is Andover, where
I found in a supermarket a fruit of the night-blooming
cereus. I'd had but one before, n Hawaii,
grown there. They call it "dragon fruit"
now, grown commercially in Vietnam, perhaps
on its way to a shop near you. If so, invest
in one (they are not cheap), and try it out
- they are superb. Hurrah for the cereus!
June 5
This full moon, in Scorpio keeping
company
with bright Antares and the brilliant
Mars,
rose for me from behind the pool of
a hot
spring in Cappadocia, Turkey, where
the food
is great (the main cash crop here is
organic
apricots), the folk music tuneful,
the natives
friendly, and the surroundings dramatic.
I was conducting a "rejuvenation
retreat"
in a nearby "cave hotel,"
the Gamirasu,
a converted Orthodox monastery that
had been
created in the 10th or 12th Century
by digging
caves into the thick layer of volcanic
tuff
that carpets much of the Anatolian
plateau.
A lush little valley, its rock walls
honeycombed
with ancient caves, sits like a moat
between
the hotel and the village. At its head,
fields
of wheat and apricots rise toward herb-dotted
hillsides. High above the hotel sits
a grove
of stunted old oak trees, on a ridge
from
hich the dramatically snow-capped peak
of
the extinct volcano Mount Ercyius gazes
down
on a field of unique fig-shaped rock
formations
known locally as "fairy chimneys."
Human ingenuity takes the prize in
Cappadocia's
several underground cities. I visited
one
of the largest, at Kaymakli, 8 stories
deep,
of which 4 are open to the public.
Its sophisticated
airshafts, keystones used to block
strategic
passages, and warren of rooms are absolutely
fantastic. Digging for them began in
Hittite
times, or earlier, then accelerated
during
the Roman and Arab eras for protection
of
local Christians from persecution.
Alternative
theories suggest they were for hiding
troops
to attack other armies from behind,
and perhaps
both explanations were true, at varying
times
... Ibrahim, the Gamirasu's owner,
who runs
the hotel with help from his cousin
Suleyman,
is a fine chap who richly deserves
your business
when you are next in that neighborhood:
Gamirasu
Hotel, Ayvali Köyü, Ürgüp 50400 - www.gamirasu.com;
gamirasu@hotmail.com; phone +90-384-354-5815
or +90-384-341-5825; fax +90-384-354-5815;
mobile +90-532-561-6292 Sagul, Turkey!
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